Servicing a Manitou Axel 2004 Fork

I’m still alive ! I thought I’d resurrect the blog a bit with some of my bicycle related shenanigans and anything else that comes my way. So first thing is the suspension fork on my mountain bike !

Manitou Axel Plus

Manitou Axel Plus

If you have a Specialized 2004 Rockhopper, you may have a Manitou Axel fork on it. My basic Rockhopper has the Axel Plus fork. If one searches for this fork, one tends to find squat ! The Axel Plus doesn’t seem to exist. However, you may come across a service manual for the 2003 Manitou Axel range. The Comp, Elite and Super. I believe the Axel Plus is the Comp and the 2004 range seems identical to the 2003 range. As my fork started making strange clunking noises recently, I decided I better have a look at it. The fork would compress, but then not de-compress fully until receiving a whack. This de-compression was the clunk noise and tended to only happen when going at a bit of speed downhill. Slightly worrying.

I had a look at the service manual, bought some suspension fluid and also on a gamble, bought a softer spring for the 2004 Manitou Super. The manual said that my weight was just within range for the softer spring and I thought it might make a bit of a difference. So first off, remove the fork from the bike.

Fork Legs

Fork Legs

To remove the lower legs, remove the bottom hex key bolts. The right leg (left side in the picture) takes a 2mm hex key. When this is removed, pull out the adjusting knob. Then use a 8mm hex key, inserted into the fork to remove the small bolt.

On the other leg, just use a 4mm hex key to remove the bolt. Grab the shiney metal stanchions in both hands and use your thumbs to push down the on the lower legs, pushing against the rubber seals. Keep pushing it down until the lower legs come off completely.

You should be able to clean the upper legs and the containing lower legs. I didn’t clean mine thoroughly as I didn’t have appropriate replacement grease for the inside. They were fairly clean anyway. It’s probably a good idea to re-attach the legs at this point as it makes things easier when replacing the suspension fluid and the spring.

To change the spring, unscrew the top left cap. (The one with the 2mm hex bolt in it.) Remove the bolt and pop the cap off. You can use an adjustable spanner then to open the 20mm knob (if you don’t have a 20mm socket). As this unscrews, the spring will pop out, attached.

Fork spring

Fork spring

You can clean and re-grease the spring. I tried to replace it with the spring I bought, but the spring appeared to be too small, and didn’t decompress the fork fully. I re-install the original spring.

Fork Fluid

Fork Fluid

To replace the suspension oil, remove the top right cap. Again, I just used the adjustable spanner. Pour out the old fluid. Take a long hex key or something long and push it into the open fork leg. This will force down the internal plunger and force the remaining fluid up. Pour this out. Pump the fork, pour out, push the internal plunger and pour out, repeating until no more fluid comes out. Pour in the correct amount, doing the same plunging technique to ensure the fluid goes everywhere it should. Re-insert the cap and tighten.

This is where I encountered a wee problem. The adjuster knob on the bottom of the right leg should screw in. Unfortunately I could not get the screw to remain attached after I screwed it in and then compressed the fork. Perhaps the internal plastic it screws into was damaged, but it didn’t appear so. The fork functions without it, so I just had to leave it.

Re-attach the fork to the bicycle. Be careful not to be a complete moron and put the fork on the wrong way around. Fork on wrong

  1. simon says:

    Thanks for the useful information!

    I found out from manitou that the axel plus is most likely the ‘comp’ but with a rebound adjust because specialized asked for that specification.

    Did you adjust the travel?

    hope it’s working ok without that screw :)

    simon

  2. Admin says:

    Hey Simon, no didn’t adjust the travel, just left it at 100, but I think it’s fairly straightforward. No real offroad testing yet, too much snow here at the moment! But it does feel significantly better from a quick test run over some serious potholes

  3. Brenton says:

    Unbelievable! I have been thinking about servicing my 2004 rockhopper shock since I had had the bike in storage upside down and all the oil drained out, then on a whim searched for it today and lo’ and behold this pops out!

    Good job!

  4. Admin says:

    Heh, sure no problem. Hopefully you have better luck with the rebound adjust knob than I did !

  5. simon says:

    Serviced my Plus yesterday and went fine.
    At the moment the screw you had trouble with seems fine, the plastic rebound adjuster seems to work fine, and only turns as far is it is supposed to, i think – the indicator can be turned from the front of the fork where it says ‘more’ to rounghly the back of the fork past ‘less’, and not all the way round. Is this right anyone? I can’t remember, just a little worried to remove it again if a chance of failure!

    Just to check, one thing that was not in the manual but is essential to reattatch the screw with rebound adjuster dial – I found that the part it screws into was deep inside the casing. When the forks are complete I had to use the 8mm hex to ‘pull’ this damper (by rotating with a little downwards motion) down to the bottom of the casting until it screws into the bottom of the casting and becomes available to screw the adjuster into.

    Forks seem more supple now than before and are running nice and smooth. Thanks for the help!
    p.s. I am regretting not riding in the snow now i’ve seen those pics above!

  6. Admin says:

    Good info on the adjuster dial Simon. I think mine is up on 3Rock somewhere.. Didn’t stay attached without the screw. Fork does seem to work though and is better than it was alright

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